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How To Install Window Without Nailing Flange

Why Replace Your Windows

How To Install a Window, Replacement Window, Without A Nailing Flange

JELD-WEN research has shown that 67 percent of homeowners need to replace their existing windows. The problem is, when it comes to windows, the choices are nearly endless. If you are replacing your old windows, experiencing drafts through and around the panes or simply want to update the style, this guide will help you make the right decision.

S On How To Waterproof Your Window:

  • Staple 15-pound builder’s felt along bottom of window opening.
  • Apply adhesive-backed waterproof membrane over the felt cut the corners and fold the excess membrane over the rough sill.
  • Cut small pieces of waterproof membrane and cover voids in corners of opening.
  • Apply a wide strip of waterproof membrane to each side of the opening run the flashing past the header and overlap the bottom flashing.
  • Set the window in the opening.
  • From inside, slip shims under the window.
  • Center window in the opening, then check the bottom of the window for level.
  • Drive a single nail through the nailing flange on the window’s high side.
  • Raise the low side of the window to level, then nail through the flange.
  • Check vertical edge of the window for plumb shim if necessary.
  • Measure the opposing diagonals of the window to ensure that it’s square.
  • Finish nailing the window to the wall.
  • Apply a wide strip of waterproof membrane across the top of the window.
  • Well Designed Windows And Aesthetics

    There are only about 15 homes on the cul-de-sac where we live, and over the years Long Life has replaced the windows in about a third of my neighbours homes. All of these projects have utilized different exterior trims and flanges, so that no two are exactly the same, yet all of the homes are of a similar age and construction. These homeowners are individuals, and have unique tastes in style. Although different, each finished project looks great and suits the individual home. That is the power of well-planned design.

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    Position And Install The Window

    • 3.1 – Run a bead of silicone caulk on the sill and around the exterior face of the window at the juncture point of the nailing strip.
    • 3.2 – From the outside, center the window into the opening so that the nailing fin is well-supported.
    • 3.3 – Secure the window with shims from the inside.
    • 3.4 – Measure the window casing diagonally from corner to corner making certain the window is plumb, level and square.
    • 3.5 – Level with shims from the inside if necessary.
    • 3.6 – From the outside, nail the nailing fin around the perimeter start with the lower corners, then the upper corners, then the center. Check the level regularly.
    • 3.7 – From the inside, secure the window by inserting shims at the bottom of the window and on the sides. Plastic shims are preferable since they don’t mildew.
    • 3.8 – Cut the ends of protruding shims.

    What You Need To Know About Window Nailing Fins

    Removing a nail

    Have you been installing windows the right way?

    We explain the different types of nailing fins and clarify some common misconceptions as to what their real purpose is. You will also learn nail fin installation tips to help you avoid common window installation mistakes.

    What are nailing fins?

    Nailing fins, sometimes called mounting flanges, are the thin strips installed on the exterior sides of a window. Unlike a front flange which is a decorative trim piece, a nailing fin is usually set back from the outer edge of the window frame and has fastener holes punched into it. The purpose of nailing fins is to secure the window to the wall sheathing and hold it in place while the shims and screws are being installed. Fins also work in conjunction with flashing and the weather resistant barrier to prevent wind and water infiltration.

    Not all windows have nailing fins

    Replacement windows, sometimes called inserts, dont have nailing fins because they are typically installed with the existing cladding still on the wall, which means there is no exposed sheathing for them to be fastened to. Replacement windows are fastened through the window frames into the sides of the window openings. Commercial windows are often installed into block or steel rough openings where a nailing fin would be impractical.

    Integral nailing fins

    Non-integral nailing fins

    Nailing fins are only one part of the installation

    Nailing fins need to be sealed

    Screws are better

    Follow the instructions

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    Locating The Window In The Opening

    Over the past five years I have not built a home with walls that were less than 712 in. thick. Most of the time that assembly includes 2×6 framing plus 12 in. of drywall inside and 112 in. of Zip System R-sheathing outside. Having this thick wall gives us an opportunity to make choices about how our Euro-style, flangeless windows are installed.

    One option is to push the window outward in the assembly, but this presents more challenges for water management because the window is closer to the weather. Moving the unit to the interior face of the wall better protects the unit from the elements, but in doing so, also moves the unit away from the sunlight and the breezetwo reasons why we have windows in our houses in the first place.

    The other factor that must be considered when positioning a window unit is the potential for creating a microclimate. If the window is placed all the way to one side within a deep wall , you limit airflow in the window well on the opposite side, and this raises the risk of creating a zone that is different than the surrounding areas. This microclimate can create the right conditions for moisture accumulation in areas where you dont want it. For this reason, I typically locate the window in the middle.

    This limits the microclimate effect and maximizes the connection to the light, breeze, and views, all while limiting the windows exposure to the elementsby which I mean primarily water, mostly in the form of rain.

    Preparing the rough opening

    Prep And Dry Fit Window

    The window is out of the wall, so now you can check all remaining wood for structural damage.

    • Replace any damaged areas.
    • Install new blind stop moulding, also known as exterior stop moulding, if needed.
    • Center the new window in the opening, supporting it with wood blocks and shims.
    • Make sure the window is plumb. Level and adjust the shims if needed.

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    Choose The Right Window Frames For Your Window Installations

    by srmi | Mar 2, 2017 | Energy News |

    Window manufacturers offer a variety of window frames for the variety of different new and retrofit window installations. Choose the right window frame. In most types of window installation, exterior window trim is an unnecessary and expensive extra to be avoided.

    Nail-fin frames are the most popular frame for new wood-frame construction.

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    How To Install a Window with a Nailing Flange
  • Aaron, It’s difficult to provide recommendations without knowing more about the existing installation.

    Ideally, the rough openings were flashed in such a way than any water that gets into the rough opening is directed to the exterior. This requires a sill pan , as well as jamb flashing to protect the rough opening jambs.

    If that work was done, you are 90% of the way to your goal. If the window installers forgot to do that work, it’s best to remove the windows and flash the rough openings. Once the rough openings have been properly flashed, you can reinstall the windows. How to flash the gap between the window frame and the siding depends on your siding choice and trim details.

  • |#2

    The windows are wood but with no flange. The opening has not been flashed properly so the windows will be removed for that to happen. They were installed flushed with the sheathing. There will be a rain-screen and fibre cement siding.

    So back to my question. Once the opening has been properly flashed and a back dam added, how do you seal a flangeless window to create the drainage plane? I see all the examples of adding a bead of sealant or tape but there is no flange on these windows. Hope that is enough info. Maybe I am using the wrong terminology.


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    Removing The Old Window

    If you are installing New Construction Windows in a house that already has windows in it, the installer must remove the siding, then the insulation , then remove any ice and water shield and cut back the house wrap, before he even gets to the window. Then, hell remove the nails that hold the existing window in place through the nailing flange, cut out any caulk or sealant and remove the existing window.

    In preparation for installing your new window, the installer then adjust the window opening framing to return it to square and slide the new window in from the outside. Then, he will plumb and level the new window in the opening, nail it to the framing, install the ice and water shield, replace the house wrap, and replace or repair the old siding.

    Measure The Window Opening

    To get a good fit for your replacement window, youll need to measure the pocket opening. Take your time to carefully note the exact height and width of your window. Correct measurements now will save you from sanding the frame and adding filler strips later.

    Here are some tips and terminology to know when measuring the window opening:

    • Stop Moulding – This is the part that holds the window in place inside the frame.
    • Frame Width – When you measure the width of the frame, be sure to go to the outside edge of the stop moulding.
    • Frame Height – Measure the frame height from where the lower sash contacts the sill to where the upper sash touches the header.

    Measure for replacement windows by following these steps:

    • Start by measuring the height inside the existing frame in three places. Check the height in the middle of the window and on the left and right sides.
    • Next, similarly measure your width. Get measurements for the top, middle and bottom.
    • Record your measurements.
    • Use the smallest measurements for width and height to help choose your new window size.

    Your new window needs to be about 3/4 inches smaller than your window opening. This is to keep you from needing to reframe the opening.

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    Install The Remodel Window

    Once youve prepared your new remodel window and the old window frame, its time to install a window into that opening:

    • Apply a bead of caulk to the inside face of the blind stop moulding.
    • Place the window into the opening, pressing it tightly against the caulk.
    • Put shims where pre-drilled holes are to secure the window.
    • Measure the window diagonals to check that the window is square. The measurements should be the same.
    • If needed, adjust the fit with shims until the window is square.
    • Drive screws into holes through the shims and into the frame.
    • Trim the shims by scoring with a razor knife and breaking off flush with the window frame.
    • Re-check that sashes are even and the window is level.
    • Fill the gaps between the window jambs and the framing members with loosely packed fiberglass insulation.
    • Install interior stop moulding with finishing nails.

    S For A Window Replacement Done The Right Way

    How To Install A Window Without a Nailing Flange ...

    It was one of those rare occasions when everything in the house was quiet. No kids fighting, no TV, no booming stereo, which explains why I could hear an ominous noise. It was our first winter in a new home. The Oregon rain was doing its usual make-everything-green thing. I slowly turned my attention to a rhythmic noise and realized it was the sound of water dripping somewhere in the first floor dining room. Not good. Hmm, no plumbing here, no plumbing upstairs above this room

    Upon inspection I discovered that there was a significant puddle of water on the window sill and more drops were joining the party. Could be a roofing issue, I thought, but seeing rain hitting the glass on the exterior , I figured it must be a window issue. Thats when I noticed the screws. Why were there screws going through the window frame?

    This was my second clue that this house had fallen victim to a run-and-gun window replacement scheme under the guise of weatherization. The screws go through the window frame and into the house framing because there were no nailing flanges on the windows.

    Of course, there are other reasons to replace windows: to prevent condensation to repair damage to make changes in the design of a room to go from solid glass to grids, or the other way around or to get a window that operates easily for opening and closing.

    When done right, the exterior trim is removed, the flange of the existing aluminum window is exposed, and the flange is released from the house.

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    Screwed And Glued Or Just Plain Screwed How Were Your New Vinyl Windows Installed

    Lately I have been finding an epidemic of improperly installed replacement vinyl windows or, if they are properly installed the installations are not working out as planned.

    I am talking about windows where the old windows have been removed and new windows are installed in the same opening.

    There are correct ways and wrong ways to do this.

    There are ways to do it that are considered best practice and installations that are less than ideal. These poor practices are a little bit more like trying to make a silk purse out of a sows ear as they say.

    In homes where the siding runs right up to the window frameas in older metal frame windows that have no wood trim around themthe siding must be cut back to allow for proper removal of the old window as well as to properly flash and attach the new window in the old opening.

    What I am seeing over and over is where the glass is removed from the metal frames and then the frames are collapsed so that the nail flanges can be withdrawn from behind the siding. This accomplishes the desired goal of removing the window but also results in less desirable consequences. The window wrap flashings and/or house-wrap will be trashed by the extraction process and gaps will be created in those protective materials that will be vulnerable to water intrusion after the new window is installed. How can proper repairs be made to this damage without taking the siding off?

    This is where the magic comes in, because it essentially cannot be done.

    Reducing The Window Opening

    Alternatively, if you purchased a new window that is smaller in either or both of the dimensions than the existing window, the installer will have to add framing to the existing opening, making your window opening smaller, which will reduce the natural light and views into your home.

    Then, after the window is installed from the outside, new house wrap or tar paper, insulation and sheathing will have to be replaced. Inside, new wallboard will have to be installed with all the taping, spackling, sanding and painting that requires, before finally installing new trim on the inside and then staining, painting and/or wallpapering to match the existing finishes.

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    Replacing An Existing Window

    The system were showing is for new window installation. Ideally, when you replace an existing window with a new one, it should be weatherproofed using this same system. Chances are, though, that the existing windows are missing proper flashing, house wrap or even felt. The extent of weatherproofing you should consider depends on the new windows exposure to weather. If the windows deep in an entryway and has zero exposure, you can skip the weatherproofing and just caulk around it. If the top of the window is near an eave but the bottom is exposed to the elements, strip off the siding and focus on flashing the bottom half of the window, but ignore the top. If the windows out in the open, unprotected by overhangs, strip off as much siding as needed to expose the opening and perform the steps just as we show.

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    In my article last month, Installing Flanged Windows: Two Strategies Compared, I reviewed common window flashing defects I come across while inspecting and field-testing . In addition, I stated my opinion that the AMAA B method is a more robust, reliable, and durable flashing optionshowing a step-by-step, B-1 method flashing installation.

    Generally speaking, the Eastern half of the United States install windows using AAMA A methods and the Western states use the AAMA B methods. With the AAMA A methods , the side flashing is applied on top of the side nailing flanges, while with the B methods place the side flashing on the rough opening before the window is set in place, resulting in the side flashing under the nailing flanges.

    Step 1. Cut Housewrap/WRB.Step 1 . Cut Housewrap/WRB.Step 1 . Cut Housewrap/WRB.Step 1 . Cut Housewrap/WRB.Step 1 . Cut Housewrap/WRB. Step 2. Install Plastic Sill Corners.Step 2 . Install Plastic Sill Corners.Step 3. Apply Sill Pan Flashing.Step 3 . Apply Sill Pan FlashingStep 3 . Apply Sill Pan Flashing.Step 3 . Apply Sill Pan Flashing.Step 3 . Apply Sill Pan Flashing.Step 4. Window Sealant Application.Step 4 . Window Sealant Application.Step 5. Window Install.Step 6. Buttered Sealant.Step 6 . Buttered sealant.Step 7. Side Flashing.Step 7 . Side Flashing. Step 8. Head Flashing.Step 9. Tape off head flap.

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